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The 1970 Roosevelt Dime with no mint mark is generally worth its face value of $0.10 in circulated condition, though uncirculated specimens can fetch between $2 and $500 depending on quality. If you find one in your pocket change, it is almost certainly a common strike from Philadelphia.
| Condition | Estimated Value |
|---|---|
| Circulated (Average Wear) | $0.10 – $0.15 |
| Uncirculated (MS60 – MS63) | $1.00 – $5.00 |
| Choice Uncirculated (MS65+) | $15.00 – $45.00 |
| Rare Error or Full Bands | $100 – $500+ |
Identifying the 1970 Roosevelt Dime No Mint Mark
If you are looking at a 1970 dime and notice there is no small letter next to the date or above the torch, don’t worry—your coin isn’t a mistake. For most of U.S. history, the Philadelphia Mint did not use a mint mark on its coins. In 1970, over 345 million dimes were struck in Philadelphia, and every single one of them was released without a “P” mint mark. Using a top coin identifier app can help you confirm the origin and variety of your specific coin within seconds.
Commonly found in jars and vending machine returns, these coins represent the workhorse of the American economy during the Nixon era. Because they were made of a copper-nickel clad composition rather than silver, people didn’t hoard them like they did the pre-1965 issues. This means most 1970 dimes you find today are heavily worn.
However, for a collector, the absence of a mint mark is just the beginning. To truly understand the value, you need to look at the “grade” or the physical condition of the coin. If the coin looks shiny and brand new, even after 50 years, you might be holding something special. Using tools like CoinKnow allows you to scan the coin’s surface to detect microscopic wear that the naked eye might miss.
The History and Composition of 1970 Dimes
By 1970, the United States had fully transitioned away from silver coinage. The 1970 Roosevelt Dime is composed of a pure copper core with an outer layer of 75% copper and 25% nickel. This “clad” sandwich was designed to mimic the weight and electrical properties of silver so that the coins would work in existing vending machines without actually containing precious metals.
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The design features President Franklin D. Roosevelt on the obverse, a tribute to his support for the March of Dimes. The reverse features an olive branch, a torch, and an oak branch, symbolizing peace, liberty, and victory. While these coins are historically significant, they are not rare. Because hundreds of millions were produced, a standard 1970 dime is worth exactly ten cents in a grocery store.
If you are curious about the technical specifications or want to see how this year compares to others, checking the 1970 Roosevelt Dime price history is a great way to see what high-end collectors are currently paying for pristine examples.
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| Specification | Detail |
|---|---|
| Composition | 91.67% Copper, 8.33% Nickel |
| Weight | 2.27 grams |
| Diameter | 17.9 mm |
| Edge | Reeded (118 reeds) |
Determining the 1970 Roosevelt Dime Value by Grade
To find out if your coin is worth more than ten cents, you must categorize it by grade. Professional graders use a 1-70 scale. Most 1970 dimes found in circulation are “Fine” or “Very Fine,” meaning they have significant scratches and loss of detail. These are only worth face value.
The real money is found in “Mint State” (MS) grades. A coin graded MS67 or higher is extremely rare because the 1970 strikes were often poor, with many coins leaving the mint with scuffs and dull luster. To get an accurate reading on your coin’s potential, CoinKnow provides a user-friendly interface to compare your dime against high-resolution images of certified grades.
The highest quality 1970 dimes often exhibit “Full Bands” (FB) on the reverse. This refers to the horizontal bands on the torch being fully separated and distinct. A 1970 Philadelphia dime with Full Bands is a true rarity and can drive the price into the hundreds of dollars. You can find more detailed 1970 dime value info by looking at recent auction records for these high-grade specimens.
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| Grade (MS) | Estimated Price |
|---|---|
| MS63 | $2 – $4 |
| MS65 | $15 |
| MS67 | $40 – $75 |
| MS67 FB (Full Bands) | $350+ |
What About the 1970-D and 1970-S Dimes?
While the “No Mint Mark” 1970 dime comes from Philadelphia, you may also encounter dimes with a small “D” or “S” above the date. The “D” stands for the Denver Mint, which produced over 404 million dimes that year. Similar to the Philadelphia version, the 1970-D is very common and usually only worth face value unless it is in perfect condition.
The “S” mint mark is more interesting. In 1970, the San Francisco Mint only produced Proof coins for collectors. These coins were struck with special polished dies to give them a mirror-like finish. If you find a 1970-S dime in your change, it’s likely a “Proof” that someone accidentally spent.
There is a very famous and expensive error known as the “1970-S No S” Proof dime. In this rare instance, the San Francisco Mint accidentally struck some proof sets without the “S” mint mark. These are worth thousands of dollars. However, it is important not to confuse the common Philadelphia 1970 dime (which naturally has no mint mark) with the rare “No S” Proof. Proof coins have a much shinier, mirror-like background than regular dimes.
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Valuable Errors to Look For in 1970 Dimes
Beyond the standard grades, error collectors look for specific mistakes made during the minting process. Because the Philadelphia Mint was churning out millions of coins, quality control occasionally slipped. Some common errors to look for include:
1. Double Die Obverse (DDO): Look for doubling in the letters of “IN GOD WE TRUST” or “LIBERTY.” While no major 1970 DDO is as famous as the 1955 penny, minor doubling can still add a small premium.
2. Off-Center Strikes: If the coin was not properly centered when struck, part of the design might be missing. A dime that is 10% to 20% off-center can be worth $20 to $50.
3. Die Cracks: Look for raised lines of metal on the surface. These occur when the steel die starts to break. While common, large die cracks can attract interest.
Using an app like CoinKnow is a great way to identify these errors. It allows you to zoom in on specific areas of the coin and compare them to known error catalogs. Even a small error can turn a ten-cent coin into a $10 discovery for a lucky cherrypicker.
Determining if Your 1970 Dime is Silver
One of the most frequent questions people ask is whether their 1970 dime is silver. The short answer is: no. The U.S. Mint stopped using 90% silver for dimes in 1964. However, some novice collectors think that “no mint mark” implies a special silver strike. This is a myth.
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The easiest way to tell is the “edge test.” Look at the side of your dime. If you see a strip of orange or brown (copper), it is a standard clad coin. If the edge is solid silver/white all the way through, you might have an extremely rare “wrong planchet” error where a 1970 design was struck on a leftover silver blank from years prior. These are exceptionally rare and requires professional authentication.
If your coin feels heavier than usual or has a distinct “ring” when dropped on a table (though we don’t recommend dropping your coins!), it might be worth investigating. For 99.9% of people, the 1970 dime will be the standard copper-nickel variety.
FAQ: Common Questions About 1970 Dimes
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Q: Is a 1970 dime with no mint mark rare?
A: No, the absence of a mint mark simply means the coin was minted in Philadelphia. Over 345 million were produced, making them very common in change today.
Q: How can I tell if my 1970 dime is a “No S” Proof error?
A: A 1970-S Proof coin has a mirror-like finish and sharp, frosted details. If your coin looks like a normal, dull dime with no mint mark, it is a Philadelphia strike. If it looks like a mirror but has no mint mark, it could be the rare “No S” error.
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Q: What is the most a 1970 Roosevelt Dime has sold for?
A: High-grade examples with the “Full Bands” designation have sold for over $500. Rare error versions or the “No S” Proof version can sell for several thousand dollars at specialized auctions.
Q: Should I clean my 1970 dime to make it worth more?
A: Never clean your coins! Cleaning a coin with chemicals or cloths creates microscopic scratches that significantly lower its value to collectors. Keep it in its original “as-found” condition.
Q: Where can I sell my 1970 dime if it’s in good condition?
A: You can take it to a local coin shop, list it on eBay, or use a coin valuation app to find interested buyers. For high-value errors, consider sending it to a grading service like PCGS or NGC.