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The 1970-S Roosevelt Dime is worth anywhere from $2 in standard Proof condition to over $10,000 for the elusive “No S” variety. While most of these coins were minted for collectors, finding a rare error version could mean a massive payday for an unsuspecting hobbyist.
| Condition / Variety | Estimated Market Value |
|---|---|
| 1970-S Proof (Common) | $2.00 – $5.00 |
| 1970-S Proof (Deep Cameo) | $15.00 – $100.00 |
| 1970 “No S” Proof Error | $500.00 – $12,000.00+ |
History of the 1970-S Roosevelt Dime
If you’ve found a shiny 10-cent piece dated 1970 with an “S” mint mark, you’re looking at a piece of San Francisco’s numismatic history. By 1970, the United States Mint had fully transitioned away from silver coinage for dimes, quarters, and halves (except for the 40% silver Kennedy halves). These dimes were struck on a copper-nickel clad composition. Using a top coin identifier app can help you confirm the composition and strike type quickly. Unlike the Philadelphia and Denver coins meant for circulation, the “S” mark signifies a Proof coin.
Proof coins are specially manufactured for collectors. They are struck multiple times on polished planchets using polished dies, resulting in a mirror-like finish and sharp details. In 1970, the San Francisco Mint produced 2,632,810 of these Proof sets. Because they were sold in protective plastic cases, many have survived in excellent condition. However, if your dime was broken out of a set or found in a “pocket change” jar, it might show signs of wear or toning. To get a better sense of what collectors are paying for these today, you can check the latest 1970 Roosevelt dime market prices.
When evaluating your coin, remember that CoinKnow is an excellent tool for identifying specific minting characteristics. The 1970-S dime represents a transitional era where the Mint was perfecting the “Deep Cameo” finish, where the frost on the portrait of FDR pops against a dark, reflective background.
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Identifying the Rare 1970 “No S” Proof Dime
The holy grail of 1970 dimes is the “No S” variety. Because all Proof dimes in 1970 were supposed to be struck at the San Francisco Mint with an “S” mint mark, a small number of coins were accidentally struck with a die that lacked the mint mark. This happened because the Philadelphia Mint (which usually didn’t use mint marks at the time) prepared the dies but forgot to punch the “S” before shipping them to San Francisco.
This error is incredibly rare, with only a few hundred estimated to exist. Many people mistake a regular 1970 Philadelphia dime (which naturally has no mint mark) for this rare error. The key distinction is the finish. A regular 1970 dime from circulation will look duller, while a “No S” Proof will have the mirror-like surface and sharp edges of a Proof coin.
If you think you’ve found one, use CoinKnow to take a high-resolution photo and compare it to known error examples. The difference in value is staggering; while a common 1970 dime is worth face value, the 1970 no s dime value can reach into the thousands of dollars at major auctions.
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| Mint Mark | Designation | Estimated Value |
|---|---|---|
| S | PR65 (Proof) | $3.00 |
| S | PR69 Deep Cameo | $55.00 |
| None (Error) | PR67 No S | $2,500.00 |
| None (Error) | PR68 No S | $8,000.00+ |
Grading and the Impact on 1970-S Dime Value
Condition is everything in the world of modern coin collecting. For a 1970-S Roosevelt Dime, professional grading services like PCGS or NGC use a 70-point scale. Since these are Proof coins, they should ideally grade between PR65 and PR70. A coin with even the slightest hairline scratch or fingerprint can see its value drop significantly.
Collectors specifically look for “Cameo” (CAM) or “Deep Cameo” (DCAM) designations. A Deep Cameo 1970-S dime has a heavy white frost on Roosevelt’s bust and the torch on the reverse, creating a beautiful contrast against the black-looking fields. These are much rarer than standard proofs because the frost on the dies wears down quickly during the striking process.
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To determine if your coin is worth the fee for professional grading, use the CoinKnow app to check for surface imperfections. If your 1970-S dime looks like it was just minted yesterday and has amazing contrast, it might be worth sending in for a chance at a high-grade certification.
Comparing 1970-S to Regular 1970 Dimes
It is vital for everyday Americans to understand the difference between the 1970-S, 1970-D, and 1970 Philadelphia dimes. The “D” stands for Denver, and “S” for San Francisco. If there is no letter above the date, it was minted in Philadelphia.
The 1970-D and 1970 Philadelphia dimes were produced in the hundreds of millions for general circulation. Unless they are in nearly perfect “Mint State” condition, they are generally worth exactly ten cents. The 1970-S is different because it was never intended to be spent at a grocery store; it was sold by the Mint in sets for $5.00. Finding an “S” mint mark in your change usually means someone spent a collector’s coin by mistake.
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| Mint Location | Mintage | Typical Value |
|---|---|---|
| Philadelphia (No Mark) | 345,570,000 | Face Value ($0.10) |
| Denver (D) | 754,942,100 | Face Value ($0.10) |
| San Francisco (S) | 2,632,810 | $2.00+ |
What to Look for on the Reverse
When examining the 1970-S Roosevelt Dime, don’t forget to flip it over. The reverse features an olive branch, a torch, and an oak branch. On high-grade specimens, you want to see “Full Bands.” This refers to the horizontal lines wrapping around the torch.
If these bands are distinct and separated, the coin is considered a “Full Band” (FB) dime, which carries a premium. However, this designation is much more common on Proof coins than on circulation strikes. Nevertheless, a PR70 Deep Cameo with perfect bands is the pinnacle of the 1970-S series.
Checking for small errors like “die cracks” or “doubled dies” on the reverse can also add a few dollars to the value. While no major doubled die was reported for the 1970-S, minor variations always exist in the world of numismatics.
Is the 1970-S Dime Silver?
Many people ask if the 1970-S Roosevelt Dime contains silver. The short answer is no. Common silver dimes ended in 1964. From 1965 onward, dimes were made of a “clad” composition: an inner core of pure copper and an outer layer of 75% copper and 25% nickel.
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If your 1970-S dime looks silver, it is simply because of the high polish of the nickel-clad surface. You can check the edge of the coin; if you see a brownish-copper stripe, it is definitely a clad coin. If the edge is solid silver-colored, it might be an exceptionally rare “wrong planchet” error, but these are extremely unlikely for the 1970 San Francisco run.
How to Store Your 1970-S Roosevelt Dime
If you have found a 1970-S dime in good condition, or better yet, a suspected “No S” error, proper storage is critical. Exposure to air and moisture can cause the copper-nickel surface to tarnish or “cloud up,” which ruins the Proof mirror finish.
Avoid keeping these coins in PVC-containing plastic flips, as the chemicals can leak out and create green goo on the coin’s surface. Instead, use PVC-free 2×2 cardboard holders or hard plastic capsules. For high-value coins, the ultimate protection is getting them “slabbed” (graded and sealed) by a professional service like PCGS. This not only protects the coin but also guarantees its authenticity and grade for future buyers.
FAQ
Q: How can I tell the difference between a Philadelphia 1970 dime and a “No S” Proof?
A: A Philadelphia 1970 dime was made for circulation and will have a standard matte-to-shiny finish with softer details. A “No S” Proof is a collector’s coin that was accidentally struck without the “S.” It will have a mirror-like background, very sharp “squared-off” edges, and was likely found in a 1970 Proof Set.
Q: Is a 1970-S Roosevelt Dime worth more than 10 cents?
A: Yes, nearly all 1970-S dimes are worth more than face value because they are Proof coins. Most are worth $2 to $5, while high-grade Deep Cameo versions can be worth $20 to $50.
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Q: Are there any 1970 dimes made of silver?
A: No, there were no business-strike or Proof Roosevelt dimes struck in silver in 1970. They are all made of a copper-nickel clad composition.
Q: Where is the mint mark on a 1970 dime?
A: The mint mark is located just above the date on the bottom left side of the coin’s front (obverse). You will see either a “D” for Denver, an “S” for San Francisco, or no mark at all (Philadelphia or the rare No S Proof).
Q: How much did a 1970 Proof Set originally cost?
A: In 1970, the U.S. Mint sold these sets for $5.00. Today, those sets typically sell for $10 to $20, depending on the quality of the coins inside and the condition of the packaging.