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The 2013-S Roosevelt Dime is worth anywhere from $6 in typical Proof 65 condition to over $45 for high-grade Silver Proof specimens. While most dimes you find in your pocket change today are only worth ten cents, these special “S” mint mark versions are a different story for collectors and lucky finders.
| Dime Variety | Condition (Grade) | Estimated Value |
|---|---|---|
| 2013-S Clad Proof | PR 65 | $5.00 – $7.00 |
| 2013-S Clad Proof | PR 70 Deep Cameo | $25.00 – $35.00 |
| 2013-S Silver Proof | PR 65 | $12.00 – $18.00 |
| 2013-S Silver Proof | PR 70 Deep Cameo | $45.00 – $65.00 |
Identifying Your 2013-S Roosevelt Dime Found in Circulation
If you just looked at your change and saw a 2013 dime with an “S” mint mark, you have found a coin that was never intended for general spending. For most people, identifying rare coins can be a challenge without the help of a top coin identifier app. These “S” dimes were minted in San Francisco specifically for collectors and were sold in protective plastic sets.
Finding one in a vending machine or a cash register means someone likely broke open a collector’s set and spent it. These are known as “Proof” coins. They feature mirror-like backgrounds and frosted details that make President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s portrait pop. Because they are handled and scratched once they enter circulation, their value drops slightly, but they remain much more valuable than a standard Philly or Denver dime.
If you aren’t sure about the quality of your find, using the CoinKnow app can help you scan the coin to detect slight surface wear. Even a lightly scratched proof dime is a keeper for a beginner’s collection.
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Understanding the Difference Between Clad and Silver Proofs
Not all 2013-S Roosevelt Dimes are made of the same metal. In 2013, the San Francisco Mint produced two distinct versions of the dime. The first is the “Clad” version, which is made of the same copper-nickel composition as the ones in your pocket. These are beautiful but lack the intrinsic precious metal value.
The second version is the Silver Proof. These are composed of 90% silver and 10% copper. These are much more desirable because they contain actual bullion value in addition to their collector premium. You can often check the edge of the coin; if you see a solid silver color without a copper “sandwich” stripe, you likely have the silver version.
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| Composition Type | Metal Content | Weight (Grams) |
|---|---|---|
| Clad Proof | Copper-Nickel | 2.27g |
| Silver Proof | 90% Silver | 2.50g |
Grading and the Value of Deep Cameo (DCAM) Dimes
When looking at the current market prices for 2013 Roosevelt Dimes, you will see the term “Deep Cameo” or “DCAM.” This refers to the intense contrast between the shiny field and the white, frosted design.
Professional graders like PCGS or NGC rate these coins on a scale of 1 to 70. A “Proof 70” is a perfect coin with no visible flaws under 5x magnification. For the 2013-S, most coins found in sets are at least a Proof 68 or 69. To get the maximum value, your coin must be flawless.
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If your coin has fingerprints or hairline scratches from being touched, it will likely grade lower. However, even mid-range grades are highly sought after by those completing birth-year sets or Roosevelt Dime collections. Using an app like CoinKnow can help you compare your coin to high-resolution images of “perfect” 70-grade specimens.
What About the 2013-P and 2013-D Roosevelt Dimes?
While the “S” mint mark is for collectors, the billions of dimes minted in Philadelphia (P) and Denver (D) are the ones we see every day. These are generally worth exactly ten cents ($0.10) if they have been used in daily transactions.
However, if you happen to find one in a “Mint State” condition—meaning it looks like it just came off the press—it might be worth a few dollars to the right buyer. To learn more about the common versions, you can research the comprehensive 2013 Roosevelt dime value guide which covers all mint locations including the high-volume P and D strikes.
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The scarcity of the 2013-S compared to the P and D strikes is significant. The San Francisco mint produced only a tiny fraction of the total dime output for that year. This artificial scarcity is exactly what keeps the price of the “S” variety much higher than its face value.
| Mint Mark | Production Type | Rarity Level |
|---|---|---|
| P (Philadelphia) | Business Strike | Very Common |
| D (Denver) | Business Strike | Very Common |
| S (San Francisco) | Proof Only | Uncommon |
Are There Any Rare 2013 Dime Errors to Look For?
Error hunters are always on the lookout for mistakes made at the mint. For the 2013-S Roosevelt Dime, errors are exceptionally rare because proof coins undergo rigorous quality control. However, in the wider 2013 production run, collectors look for “Doubled Dies” or “Off-Center Strikes.”
A doubled die error would appear as a slight ghosting or doubling of the letters in “LIBERTY” or the date “2013.” Because modern minting technology is so precise, these errors are few and far between, making them highly valuable. If you suspect you have found a 2013 error dime, CoinKnow can provide access to community forums where experts can take a look at your photos.
Keep an eye out for “Die Clashes” or “Clipped Planchets” as well. While not as famous as errors from the 1940s or 50s, modern errors on dimes can still fetch $20 to $100 depending on the severity of the mistake and the coin’s overall condition.
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How to Sell Your 2013-S Roosevelt Dime
If you’ve confirmed that you have a 2013-S dime, especially the silver variety, you might be wondering how to turn it into cash. Your best bet is usually a local coin shop or an online marketplace like eBay. Collectors look for these to fill out their “Proof Sets” or “Dime Folders.”
Before selling, make sure not to clean the coin! Even a light rubbing with a cloth can leave microscopic scratches that ruin its “Proof” finish and destroy its value. Keep it in a soft flip or a plastic capsule. Most buyers will pay a premium for a coin that has been well-preserved in its original state.
Remember that the silver price fluctuates daily. If you have the silver version, its “melt value” provides a floor for the price, but the collector value will almost always be higher than just the raw silver content. Check current silver spot prices before heading to a dealer.
FAQ
Q: How can I tell if my 2013-S dime is silver?
A: The easiest way is the “tissue test” or the “edge test.” Look at the edge of the coin. If you see a solid silver-colored edge without a brown copper stripe, it is likely silver. Additionally, a silver dime weighs 2.5 grams, while a clad dime weighs 2.27 grams.
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Q: Why is there an “S” on my dime?
A: The “S” stands for the San Francisco Mint. This mint currently only produces “Proof” coins intended for collectors. These are sold in specialized sets and are not meant to be released into general circulation.
Q: Is a 2013 dime with no mint mark rare?
A: No. Dimes with no mint mark were made in Philadelphia. In 2013, the Philadelphia mint produced over 1 billion dimes, so they are very common and worth only ten cents in circulated condition.
Q: What is the highest price ever paid for a 2013 dime?
A: While common 2013 dimes sell for face value, perfect PR70 Deep Cameo Silver Proofs can sell at auction for over $100 when they are part of a registry set collection, though most sell in the $40-$60 range.