The 1968-D Roosevelt Dime is worth anywhere from its $0.10 face value in worn condition to over $500 for high-grade specimens with Full Band details. While most examples found in your change today are only worth their melt value or face value, certain rare varieties and high-quality strikes can be a hidden treasure.
| Condition | Estimated Value |
|---|---|
| Circulated (Average Wear) | $0.10 – $0.25 |
| Uncirculated (MS60-MS63) | $1.00 – $5.00 |
| Gem Quality (MS65+) | $15.00 – $50.00 |
| Rare Grade (MS67 FB) | $450.00+ |
Understanding the 1968-D Roosevelt Dime History and Composition
The 1968-D Roosevelt Dime represents a significant era in American numismatics. By 1968, the United States Mint had fully transitioned away from 90% silver coinage due to rising silver prices and a national coin shortage. If you have found a 1968 dime with a “D” mint mark, it is composed of a copper-nickel clad “sandwich”—specifically, a core of pure copper bonded to outer layers of 75% copper and 25% nickel.
If you are unsure whether your coin is silver or clad, using a top coin identifier app can help you distinguish between various metal types and years instantly. The Denver Mint struck a massive 288,104,634 of these dimes in 1968. Because hundreds of millions were produced, the coin is incredibly common in everyday circulation.
For the average person, this means that most 1968-D dimes you find in your piggy bank or pocket change are not made of precious silver. However, that doesn’t mean they aren’t worth investigating. Collectors look for specific attributes that make certain coins stand out from the millions of others produced that year. Using the CoinKnow app can help you track these specific varieties and keep an updated inventory of your finds.
What Determines the 1968-D Dime Value?
When evaluating your 1968-D Roosevelt Dime, the most critical factor is its condition, often referred to as its “grade.” Because these coins were made of a harder copper-nickel alloy compared to the older silver dimes, they tend to withstand wear and tear better. However, finding one in “Mint State” (MS) condition—meaning it has never been used in daily transactions—is the key to finding value.
Most circulated 1968-D dimes are only worth their face value of 10 cents. However, as the grade increases toward the perfect score of 70, the price jumps significantly. For instance, the current market value for 1968-D dimes in Mint State 67 can reach hundreds of dollars at auction.
Beyond the numerical grade, collectors look for “Full Bands” (FB). On the reverse of the dime, there is a torch. If the horizontal bands at the top and bottom of the torch are clearly defined and separated without any blending, the coin is designated as FB. This is quite rare for the 1968-D issue because the dies used at the Denver Mint that year were often worn down, resulting in “mushy” details.
| Grade | Regular Strike Price | Full Bands (FB) Price |
|---|---|---|
| MS63 | $2 | $15 |
| MS65 | $12 | $45 |
| MS66 | $25 | $110 |
| MS67 | $120 | $550 |
Identifying the 1968-D Dime Mint Mark
To confirm you have a 1968-D dime, you need to locate the mint mark. On Roosevelt dimes minted in 1968, the mint mark is located on the obverse (the heads side), just above the date. You are looking for a small “D,” which indicates the coin was produced at the Denver Mint.
If there is no mint mark at all, the coin was minted in Philadelphia. While Philadelphia dimes of this year are also common, the Denver specimens are known for having slightly different strike characteristics. Using a tool like CoinKnow helps you photograph the coin and zoom in to see if the “D” is “repunched” or shows any doubling, which could increase its value to collectors.
Interestingly, 1968 was the first year since 1964 that mint marks returned to U.S. coins. From 1965 to 1967, the Mint removed mint marks to discourage coin collecting during a period of silver shortages. The return of the “D” in 1968 marked a return to normalcy for numismatists. You can find more detailed historical data on the 1968-D dime’s collectible worth through specialized valuation databases.
Rare Errors and Varieties to Look For
While the standard 1968-D dime isn’t worth much in your pocket, error hunters are always on the lookout for mistakes made during the minting process. These errors can turn a ten-cent coin into a hundred-dollar prize. One common error for this era is the “Clipped Planchet,” where a portion of the circular coin is missing because the metal sheet was misfed.
Another sought-after error is the “Off-Center Strike.” This happens when the coin blanks are not properly aligned with the dies. If you find a 1968-D dime where the design is shifted to one side, leaving a crescent of blank metal, it could be worth $20 to $50 depending on the percentage of the offset.
Die cracks and “cuds” are also found on 1968 dimes. As the dies aged, they would crack, causing raised lines of metal to appear on the finished coins. While many of these are minor, large and dramatic die cracks can carry a premium. If you suspect your coin has an error, CoinKnow allows you to compare your specimen with known error databases to see if you’ve hit the jackpot.
| Error Type | Description | Value Estimate |
|---|---|---|
| Off-Center (10%+) | Design not centered | $15 – $50 |
| Clipped Planchet | Missing edge section | $20 – $40 |
| Broadstruck | Struck outside the collar | $10 – $30 |
Is the 1968-D Dime Silver?
This is the most common question beginners ask about the 1968-D Roosevelt Dime. The short answer is: No, it is not made of silver. The last business-strike silver dimes were minted in 1964. However, beginners sometimes get confused because the 1968-D dime still looks remarkably shiny and similar to its silver predecessors.
To check for yourself, look at the edge of the coin. If you see a distinct copper-colored stripe running along the edge, you have a clad coin. If the edge is solid silver-white, you might have a rare 1968 silver proof (though these were only minted in San Francisco and didn’t have a “D” mark) or a very rare “wrong planchet” error.
While the 1968-D dime lacks silver content, its value comes strictly from its numismatic appeal. For a 1968 dime to be truly valuable, it must be in “Gem” condition. Most coins found in circulation will be Grade Good (G) to Very Fine (VF), which essentially limits their value to 10 cents. Only those that have been safely tucked away in rolls or mint sets since 1968 have a chance at the higher price tiers.
How to Sell Your 1968-D Roosevelt Dime
If you believe you have found a high-grade 1968-D dime or a rare error, your next step is to get it evaluated or sold. For coins worth less than $10, selling on platforms like eBay can be difficult due to shipping costs and fees. It is often better to keep these in a personal collection or wait until you have a larger lot of coins to sell together.
For high-value items, such as an MS67 Full Band 1968-D dime, professional grading by services like PCGS or NGC is recommended. A certified grade can significantly boost the selling price and provide peace of mind to the buyer. You can then sell these through specialized numismatic auction houses or at local coin shows.
Always remember to handle your coins with care. Never clean a 1968-D dime, as even light scrubbing can scratch the surface and destroy its numismatic value. Keep your coins in PVC-free flips or holders to prevent environmental damage. Using a digital assistant like CoinKnow can help you keep track of market trends so you know exactly when the demand for Roosevelt dimes is at its peak.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is there a 1968-D silver dime?
A: No, the 1968-D dimes were only produced in a copper-nickel clad composition. Silver dimes ended in 1964, though 1968 Proof dimes from the San Francisco Mint were made for collectors (but these also did not contain silver).
Q: Where is the mint mark on a 1968-D dime?
A: The “D” mint mark is located on the obverse (front) of the coin, just above the date on the right side of Roosevelt’s neck.
Q: What is the highest price ever paid for a 1968-D dime?
A: Samples in MS67 with Full Band details have sold for over $500. Without the Full Band designation, even high-grade specimens usually sell for under $100.
Q: How can I tell if my 1968-D dime is a “Full Band” (FB)?
A: Look at the torch on the back of the coin. If the horizontal lines at the top and bottom of the torch are completely distinct and separated by a clear groove, it is a Full Band strike.
Q: Are there any 1968 dimes worth thousands of dollars?
A: Only extremely rare error coins, such as a 1968 “No S” Proof dime (which lacks the S mint mark), are worth thousands. Standard 1968-D dimes are generally modest in value unless they are in near-perfect condition.