Your Old Coin Could Be Valuable!
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The 1916-S Buffalo Nickel is worth anywhere from $20 in heavily worn condition to over $1,500 in high-grade mint state. Whether you found one in a box of old family belongings or inherited a small collection, this particular coin from the San Francisco Mint is a prized find for many hobbyists.
| Condition / Grade | Estimated Value |
|---|---|
| Good (G-4) | $20 – $25 |
| Fine (F-12) | $45 – $60 |
| Extremely Fine (EF-40) | $210 – $250 |
| Uncirculated (MS-60) | $450 – $600 |
| Choice Mint State (MS-65) | $1,500+ |
Understanding the History of the 1916-S Buffalo Nickel
The 1916-S Buffalo Nickel is part of the iconic series designed by James Earle Fraser, which ran from 1913 to 1938. By 1916, the design had been modified slightly from its original 1913 “Type 1” version to ensure the denominations didn’t wear away too quickly. This year is particularly interesting because it represents a period of high production across the country, yet the San Francisco (“S”) mint mark remains significantly rarer than its Philadelphia counterpart.
For many everyday Americans, identifying this coin is the first step toward discovering a hidden treasure. If you aren’t sure what you’re looking at, using a top coin identifier app can help you confirm the date and mint mark instantly. The “S” mark is located on the reverse side (the buffalo side), right under the words “Five Cents” and above the rim.
When hobbyists talk about the 1916-S, they often look for the sharpness of the strike. The San Francisco mint was notorious for sometimes producing coins with slightly softer details compared to the Denver or Philadelphia mints. This means a 1916-S with a sharp “S” and a clear horn on the buffalo is highly sought after. Using the CoinKnow app can help you compare your coin’s details against high-resolution images to see how yours stacks up.
Your Old Coin Could Be Valuable!
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How Grading Affects the 1916-S Buffalo Nickel Value
The value of your nickel depends almost entirely on its “grade,” or its state of preservation. Because these coins circulated heavily in American commerce for decades, most examples found today are quite worn. In the world of numismatics, we use a 70-point scale to determine quality. For a common person, the biggest jump in value occurs when the coin moves from “About Uncirculated” to “Mint State.”
Your Old Coin Could Be Valuable!
Identify It & Know Its Real Value — Free Download
A coin in “Good” condition will have a visible date, but the buffalo’s horn will be completely flat and the Indian’s hair braid will lack detail. As you move up the scale, you start to see the bridge of the nose, the folds in the skin, and the texture of the buffalo’s fur. This level of detail is exactly what drives 1916-S Buffalo Nickel MS grade prices into the thousands of dollars.
If you are holding a coin that looks shiny and has no visible scratches, you might have an uncirculated specimen. These are rare because most 1916 nickels were put to work immediately in the economy. CoinKnow allows you to submit photos for a preliminary assessment, which is a great first step before paying for professional third-party grading from services like PCGS or NGC.
Your Old Coin Could Be Valuable!
Identify It & Know Its Real Value — Free Download
| Grade Designation | Visual Description | Price Range |
|---|---|---|
| VG-8 (Very Good) | Half of the buffalo’s horn is visible. | $30 – $40 |
| VF-20 (Very Fine) | Stronger details in the Indian’s hair. | $80 – $110 |
| AU-50 (About Uncirculated) | Traces of wear only on highest points. | $350 – $420 |
Identifying the S Mint Mark and Its Significance
The “S” mint mark is the small letter located on the reverse side of the coin. During 1916, three mints produced Buffalo Nickels: Philadelphia (no mint mark), Denver (D), and San Francisco (S). The San Francisco mint produced the lowest number of nickels that year, with only 11.8 million struck. While that sounds like a large number, it is significantly lower than the 63 million produced in Philadelphia.
This lower mintage is why the current 1916 buffalo nickel valuation data consistently shows the “S” variant as the most expensive of the three standard issues from that year. In fact, even in low grades, an “S” mint nickel is worth about ten times more than a Philadelphia nickel from the same year.
Collectors often try to complete “date and mint mark sets,” meaning they want one coin from every year and every mint. Because the 1916-S is a “key date” (a rarer coin in a series), there is always a buyer waiting for one. If you’re a beginner, using a tool like CoinKnow can help you distinguish a genuine mint mark from damage or dirt that might look like a letter.
Your Old Coin Could Be Valuable!
Identify It & Know Its Real Value — Free Download
Key Varieties and Errors to Watch For
While the standard 1916-S is valuable, there are certain “varieties” that can make a coin worth even more. While 1916 is famous for the “Doubled Die Obverse” (DDO) error found on Philadelphia coins, San Francisco nickels also have their own unique characteristics. Look closely at the date and the “S” mint mark for any signs of doubling or “re-punching.”
A “Repunched Mint Mark” (RPM) occurs when the mint worker struck the letter “S” into the die more than once, leading to a shadowed or doubled appearance of the letter. These errors aren’t always easy to see with the naked eye. You should use a magnifying glass or a high-quality camera to check these details.
If you discover an error on your coin, the price can skyrocket. Collectors of error coins are often willing to pay a premium over the standard book value. Always check the rim of the coin as well; “off-center” strikes where the design is shifted to one side are also valuable finds for the 1916-S issue.
Your Old Coin Could Be Valuable!
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| Rare Feature | Premium Value Added |
|---|---|
| Repunched Mint Mark (RPM) | 20% – 50% extra |
| Die Clashes | 10% – 15% extra |
| Full Horn Details | Significant (Required for VF+ grades) |
Tips for Selling Your 1916-S Buffalo Nickel
If you’ve confirmed that you have a 1916-S Buffalo Nickel and you’re ready to sell, don’t rush to the first pawn shop you see. General pawn shops usually pay only a fraction of what a coin is worth. Instead, consider visiting a local coin shop or looking into reputable online auction sites. Collectors look for “originality,” meaning a coin that hasn’t been cleaned or polished.
Cleaning a coin is the fastest way to destroy its value. A 1916-S that has been scrubbed with baking soda or metal polish might look shiny to a novice, but a professional will see the microscopic scratches and “dead” luster immediately. A cleaned coin often sells for 50% less than an uncleaned one in the same grade.
To get the best price, document your coin well. Take clear photos of both the front (obverse) and back (reverse). Use the CoinKnow app to keep a digital record of your collection’s estimated value before you head into negotiations. Having a solid understanding of the market price ensures you won’t be taken advantage of during the sale.
FAQs
Q: Where is the mint mark on a 1916-S Buffalo Nickel?
A: The mint mark is located on the reverse (tails) side of the coin. Look at the very bottom, just below the words “FIVE CENTS.” If you see a small “S,” it was minted in San Francisco.
Your Old Coin Could Be Valuable!
Identify It & Know Its Real Value — Free Download
Q: Is my 1916-S Buffalo Nickel real?
A: Counterfeits exist, especially for rare mint marks. Real 1916-S nickels have a specific weight of 5.0 grams. If yours feels light or doesn’t stick to a magnet, it’s a good sign, but professional authentication is always recommended for high-value coins.
Q: Why is the date on my Buffalo Nickel fading?
A: This is a common problem with the Buffalo Nickel series. The date was placed on a raised part of the design, making it the first thing to wear away. A “dateless” nickel is usually only worth its face value or a few cents, though chemical restorers can sometimes bring the date back.
Q: Should I get my 1916-S Buffalo Nickel graded?
A: If you believe your coin is in “Extremely Fine” or “Uncirculated” condition (worth $200+), professional grading is worth the cost. For coins in lower grades, the grading fee might be more than the coin’s actual value increase.