Your Old Coin Could Be Valuable!
Identify It & Know Its Real Value — Free Download
The 1913-S Buffalo Nickel is worth anywhere from $40 in heavily worn condition to over $25,000 for high-grade Mint State specimens. This iconic “Type 2” variety is one of the most sought-after coins in American history, representing the very first year of the Buffalo Nickel series and a rare minting from San Francisco.
| Condition (Grade) | Estimated Market Value |
|---|---|
| Good (G-4) | $40 – $55 |
| Fine (F-12) | $120 – $160 |
| Extremely Fine (XF-45) | $350 – $450 |
| Uncirculated (MS-63) | $1,200 – $1,800 |
| Gem Uncirculated (MS-65+) | $3,500 – $25,000+ |
Understanding the History of the 1913-S Buffalo Nickel
If you just found an old nickel with a Native American portrait on the front and a majestic bison on the back, you might be holding a piece of American frontier history. The 1913 Buffalo Nickel replaced the Liberty Head “V” nickel and was designed by James Earle Fraser. It is widely considered one of the most beautiful coins ever produced by the U.S. Mint. However, if that coin features a small “S” on the back under the words “FIVE CENTS,” it means it was minted in San Francisco, making it significantly more valuable than common versions.
Using a top coin identifier app can help you quickly confirm if your coin has that crucial mint mark. In 1913, the Mint realized very quickly that the original design had a flaw: the “mound” the buffalo stood on was too high, causing the “FIVE CENTS” inscription to wear away quickly. They redesigned it mid-year to place the buffalo on a straight line. This creates two distinct varieties: Type 1 (Mound) and Type 2 (Line). The 1913-S Type 2 is the legendary rarity that collectors dream of finding in their attic or an old jar of change.
Because these coins were released into circulation during a time when few people could afford to save them, many 1913-S Nickels are heavily worn. If you are unsure of what you have, the CoinKnow app can help you identify the design type and provide an instant estimate of its rarity. Most everyday Americans stumble upon the “Type 1” variety, but the “Type 2” (where the buffalo stands on a flat line) is the one that commands four and five-figure prices at auction.
Your Old Coin Could Be Valuable!
Identify It & Know Its Real Value — Free Download
How to Identify the Rare 1913-S Variety
To determine the 1913-S Buffalo Nickel value, you first need to identify the mint mark and the design type. Flip the coin over to the reverse side. Look directly beneath the words “FIVE CENTS.” If you see a tiny “S,” your coin was struck at the San Francisco Mint. If there is no letter, it was made in Philadelphia, and if there is a “D,” it came from Denver. The San Francisco issues are almost always the most valuable because they had the lowest production numbers (mintage).
Your Old Coin Could Be Valuable!
Identify It & Know Its Real Value — Free Download
Next, look at the ground the buffalo is standing on. In the “Type 1” version, the buffalo is standing on a raised mound of dirt. In the “Type 2” version, the buffalo is standing on a flat, recessed line. The 1913-S Type 2 is much rarer than the Type 1. Because the Type 2 design was harder to strike, many “S” mint coins from this year have “mushy” or blurry details. This makes high-quality, sharp examples incredibly expensive.
If you are struggling to see the details with the naked eye, a magnifying glass or a high-resolution scan is necessary. You can also use CoinKnow to zoom in on the specific areas of the coin that indicate the variety. Professional graders look for the horn on the buffalo and the braid in the Native American’s hair to determine grade. Even a tiny difference in wear can mean a difference of hundreds of dollars in final sale price.
Your Old Coin Could Be Valuable!
Identify It & Know Its Real Value — Free Download
| Variety Type | Mintage (Amount Made) | Rarity Level |
|---|---|---|
| 1913-P (Type 1) | 30,992,000 | Common |
| 1913-S (Type 1) | 2,105,000 | Scarce |
| 1913-S (Type 2) | 1,209,000 | Rare |
The Grading Factor: Why Quality Matters
The single most important factor in determining how much your coin is worth is the “grade.” This is a number from 1 to 70 that describes how much wear is on the coin. A 1913-S Buffalo Nickel that was used in grocery stores for years might only be a “Good-4” or “Very Good-8.” On the other hand, a coin that was tucked away in a bank vault since 1913 might be “Mint State-65.” For this specific year, the 1913-S Buffalo Nickel MS65 prices can reach staggering heights, often exceeding $5,000 for Type 1 and $30,000 for Type 2.
When grading a Buffalo Nickel, the most common area to check for wear is the buffalo’s tail and the tip of the horn. If the horn is completely visible and sharp, the coin is likely in “Fine” or better condition. If the horn is completely worn away and blends into the buffalo’s back, it is likely in “Good” condition. Coins with no visible date at all are generally worth very little, though since 1913 was the first year, the date is usually visible as it sat in a deeper part of the design.
If you believe you have a high-grade specimen, it is often worth paying for a professional grading service like PCGS or NGC. These third-party companies will verify the coin is authentic and assign it a permanent grade. However, before spending money on grading fees, use CoinKnow to get a baseline idea of whether your coin is a “treasure” or just a “collectible.” Grading can cost $30-$50 per coin, so you only want to send in coins that have a high potential value.
Your Old Coin Could Be Valuable!
Identify It & Know Its Real Value — Free Download
Market Trends for the 1913-S Buffalo Nickel
The market for early Buffalo Nickels remains very strong because of the iconic “Americana” appeal of the coin. Over the last decade, prices for the 1913 San Francisco issues have remained stable or increased. Because the “S” mint coins had such low mintages compared to the Philadelphia (P) mint, there is always more demand than supply. Collectors trying to complete a “Set” of Buffalo Nickels must have the 1913-S, making it a “key date” along with the 1913-D and the famous 1937-D 3-Legged variety.
Recent auction data shows that even mid-grade coins—those that look “okay” but not “perfect”—are selling for hundreds of dollars. For instance, a 1913-S Type 2 in “Very Fine” condition (VF20) might sell for $300 to $400 at a local coin show. This makes it one of the few nickels you can find that is worth more than a tank of gas even in average condition. You can find detailed current 1913 nickel value guides online to see what specific auctions have closed at recently.
It is also important to watch out for “re-punched” or cleaned coins. If a coin looks too shiny or has weird scratches from being scrubbed with a cloth, its value can drop by 50% or more. Real 1913-S Buffalo Nickels should have a dull, greyish luster if circulated, or a “frosty” appearance if uncirculated. Collectors prefer “original skin” (the natural aging of the metal) over a coin that has been polished to look new.
Your Old Coin Could Be Valuable!
Identify It & Know Its Real Value — Free Download
| Condition | Type 1 (Mound) Value | Type 2 (Line) Value |
|---|---|---|
| Good (G) | $45 | $240 |
| Very Fine (VF) | $85 | $375 |
| About Uncirculated (AU) | $150 | $800 |
| Mint State 63 (MS63) | $350 | $1,850 |
Where to Sell Your 1913-S Buffalo Nickel
If you’ve confirmed that you have a genuine 1913-S and you’re ready to turn it into cash, you have several options. For lower-grade coins (worth $50-$200), local coin shops are the fastest way to sell. However, keep in mind that a dealer needs to make a profit, so they will typically offer you 60% to 70% of the “book value.” If you want the full market price, selling directly to a collector on eBay or through a specialized coin forum might be better, though it takes more effort.
For high-value coins—those worth $1,000 or more—you should almost always use a professional auction house like Heritage Auctions or Stacks Bowers. These venues attract serious collectors who are willing to pay a premium for authenticated, rare coins. Before you sell, make sure you have a clear idea of the coin’s value by checking multiple sources. Using the CoinKnow app can provide you with a “fair market value” so you don’t get low-balled during a transaction.
Remember, never clean your coin before selling it. Cleaning a rare 1913-S Buffalo Nickel is the fastest way to destroy its collector value. Even the most gentle scrubbing can leave microscopic scratches that a professional buyer will spot immediately. Just keep the coin in a soft plastic holder or a cardboard “2×2” flip to prevent further wear or fingerprints from damaging the surface.
FAQ
Q: How can I tell if my 1913 Buffalo Nickel is from San Francisco?
A: Turn the coin to the back (the side with the buffalo). Look at the very bottom, right below the words “FIVE CENTS.” If you see a small letter “S,” it was minted in San Francisco. If there is no letter, it was minted in Philadelphia.
Your Old Coin Could Be Valuable!
Identify It & Know Its Real Value — Free Download
Q: What is the difference between Type 1 and Type 2 Buffalo Nickels?
A: Type 1 nickels show the buffalo standing on a raised mound or hill. Underneath the buffalo, the words “FIVE CENTS” are also on the mound. In Type 2, the mound was removed and replaced with a flat line, and “FIVE CENTS” is now in a recessed space below that line.
Q: Is a 1913-S Buffalo Nickel with a worn-off date worth anything?
A: Generally, “dateless” nickels are only worth a few cents. However, since 1913 was the only year with the “Mound” design (Type 1), you can identify a 1913 coin even without a date. A dateless 1913-S is still worth significantly more than a common dateless nickel, often selling for $10 to $20.
Q: Are there any fakes or counterfeits to watch out for?
A: Because the 1913-S (especially Type 2) is so valuable, counterfeits do exist. Some people will take a common 1913 Philadelphia nickel and “glue” an “S” onto the back. Always look at the mint mark under magnification to ensure it is part of the original coin metal and not added later. Professional certification is the best way to ensure authenticity.